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Do I replace orange pcv valve with black one? Does it have to be from dealer? What do I have to reprogram once i change the pcv valve?

very nice job, thanks.

Hey, good job! I got a c0042-62 in 15 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6, clears , and comes back with the next ignition cycle… abs module been changed, brake switch changed, banging my head against the wall… any help is appreciated…

Hello friend, excellent video, please help me, can the measurement of the activation signal only be tested with an oscilloscope?

I just experienced this today with my 2009 maxima while i was driving,if this is a known problem by Nissan why hasn’t there been a recall,i swear this is the last nissan peace of crap I’ll ever by again.

After replacing the fuel module do I have to program it for it to start?

Do you know if VW trouble codes are recorded by the vehicle ?

you’re the man !!! worked instantly!!!

Thanks for the video it helps a lot.

Thank you!!

عاشت ايدك اخي

Great job ... i bought a car that had accident and the cluster lights not open, honda Civic ... what could be the causes... i checked all the fuses and all looks good ... what else should i check or replace??? Thanks

I have a 2016 Chevy Malibu ls 1.5 liter turbocharged and I have a couple of codes P1101 P16E5 and P00C6 I have replaced so many sensors can u help please

Great job!!!

How do I subscribe to the All Data program?

mine was the pigtail Connector was bad , but I also replaced a OEM TB and Mass Flow sensor aswell. Running like brand new again .

nice work brother are you iraqi

That Data Pid is interesting. Thanks for sharing! I always check registered keys because I have had the same thing happen to me. It seems that when there are zero keys registered, it puts it in a mode to turn ignition on when it's not a registered key.

Alway easy fix after you figure it out 😀 Had a 2021 silverado lost vin and data in ecm after battery swap. No crank plus no anti theft lights on dash. IC would just cut out upon crank. New ecm sps2 program ($50 to gm) immo learn crank learn GTG. 1hr techconnect to find a rerouted method to program. Wouldn't program normally. 5 min mark would cutout. Not sure if vehicle issue or sps2 software issue.

Can't wait for the next training video 👍 WHIP SMART, Dallas Auto Diag Enjoy your weekend with all your family around you, Dallas Auto Diag From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 18:06PM Good Evening

I am only a few minutes in and I can already see a pattern. I also see you are a tool junky LOL ( I would not know another one of them)🤣😂 Anyway, it looks like the so called locksmith was trying to program a key and made it to the part where all keys are erased but failed after that to add the key. like I said I am only a few minutes into the video. Also I found that erasing codes in the BCM before attempting to program a key is always a good idea!! Yes, I know the process of adding will do it as well but I had instances where it refused to add a key using the automated way whereas it would work after I cleared codes first. Not to mention I want to know what the code is about anyway.

Great work infact i am working on s nissan murano 2009 someone already messed it up no a single module belongs to the car 😅..hopefully will manage with it..cheers a good luck bro

Superb👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks for sharing BRO👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks think I’m having same issue

My man here do great work at a great price. He did work for me on my daughter car.

Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6. My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start. Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home. Watched many videos. Checked: battery-it was ok, 1 year old Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good. Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on. With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again. Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found. Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side. Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start. Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured. Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.) He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board. I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems. I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode. Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems. Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.

Did you not notice that each component has resistance just built into it the way you tested it is completely wrong

Maybe a revised update firmware would fix this?

Had a hard time following. Looked basically like you just used a computer to cancel out the trouble codes for the TCM.?

Thanks for the video, i managed to fix the same problem on my car that was over a year ,driving the car using a pencil after every start ,it seems as if that 5amp fuse happen to fall some how

Check your the brake switches they're suppose to change when pressing the brake it's common

Yours was bad. Like racing a horse with broken leg, painful to watch. I bought TopDiag about a year ago and the features work, but there is no warm feeling of holding a fluke when you pick it up. I don't know what they claim the bandwidth of their scope is, but CAN FD is up to 5mbits. They have very little published specs. Thanks for showing how bad these can be, but you at a higher level that diyers.

Waiting for part 2 bro..interesting case wishing you good luck and Waiting to learn something new from your experience. Cheers

Waiting on Part 2 Im curious to see what its going to be

What was the fee for this service?

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I have done this with VVDIprog , but I go to the IMMOBILIZER - Porsche - BCM2M25J-R/W/UNLOCK .Check the connection diagrams there you must remove two elements and CUT one wire on PCB

Grasias

Interesting case study. I am looking forward to part 2

Steering lock Fault

Looking forward to part 2!

Have the same issue right now and I just bought the oem part my question is it just plus and play or do I need to take in so they can reset it after installing the new module? Thanks

If you still check the comments, which power probe do you recommend for the DIY from the cheapo Ebay or Amazon brands? Thanks.

Your skills keep improving 👍🏾

I do auto electrical diagnostics here in San Antonio. I don't know if it's just me, but I hate programming stuff. I know it needs to be done, as part of the job, but it really has nothing to do with electrical diagnostics. It's computer nerd stuff that's irritating.

Can you please tell me where I can buy one ?

Same thing happening right now with my 2006 Nissan Maxima 😢

That Is some good Info!!!!

Hey great job! I'm having that same problem! Can you help me?

I have a Amscope trinocular, and a camera. I'm looking for a little monitor for it. Maybe around a 15" or so. I dont have or use a computer, or lap top. Im just using Trinocular, camera, and a monitor. What do you recommend? Most everything out there is 21" or bigger it seems